According to a recent report by The French National Institute for The Circular Economy/INEC, there are still technical constraints on textile recycling.
INEC evaluated the degree of economic recycling in the textile and apparel industry at the present stage, pointed out the existing limitations of textile recycling, and stressed the need to predict the availability of recycled materials from the initial design stage.
The report shows that by category:
Cotton fabric recycling technology is quite mature, but the quality of recycled fiber is not as good as the original fiber, so the utilization rate of recycled fiber in new clothing can only reach 20%.
Wool can be reused many times;
Polyester polymers can be reconverted into new fibers;
Polyester fiber is a special case, the recovery of the conversion of the main insulation material, and recycled polyester fiber clothing is the main component of plastic bottles - the whole process of conversion energy consumption
As a whole, the biggest challenge for the textile and garment industry at present lies in the recycling and reuse of blended fabrics. The recycling difficulty lies in the separation of various fibers. Blended fabrics are used for fast fashion brands.
INEC points out that it's a good idea to start with sustainable fabrics, such as bio-cotton, sayre fiber (eucalyptus cellulose), flax and other more environmentally friendly fibers, instead of cotton and rayon.
On the other hand, the textile and garment industry should adopt new methods from the production source. "There has to be a lot of investment in recycling technology so that recycled materials have the same value as new materials. The choice of design can significantly reduce the environmental impact of clothing while improving recycling.
At present, for every piece of clothing produced, 20-30% of the leftover material is left, which can be optimized by material selection. In the denim industry, for example, only 30% of a pair of jeans can be recycled due to design elements such as stitching and rivets. If only a single fabric is used, the whole recycling process can be simpler.
In addition, the environmental damage of dyes cannot be ignored. Echoing the idea of Greenpeace, the international environmental group, INEC believes that reducing the use of toxic chemicals is a prerequisite for achieving a circular economy in the textile and apparel industry.
In the process of recycling textile and garment industry, manufacturers are not the only participants, and consumers must also make a contribution. Since 2000, the number of clothes purchased by consumers has increased dramatically, and the service life of clothes has been shortened. In 2015, there were 6.4 million tons of clothing in the European market.
Every year, the French market per capita increase 9.5 kilograms of clothing, home textiles and footwear products. In 2017, the potential recycling rate in France is 36% of the market circulation, which means that nearly 80% of fabrics in Europe will not be recycled.
In addition to calling for rational consumption of consumers, INEC believes that alternative solutions can be considered, such as customized services, clothing production, upgrading and transformation, and other supporting services that clothing brands can provide. "These downstream segments of the marketing strategy can connect end customers and engage them in designing products that are tailored to individual preferences and assumptions, as well as increase brand loyalty and, on the other hand, increase the life cycle of the garment."